Portraits of Eastern Europe

The word on Bucharest is that it's ugly, gritty, grimy -- and parts of it are. But don't make do with first impressions. As our guide aptly put it: "New-old-beautiful-ugly. This is what Bucharest is."

Energetic, hectic and just two decades out of Communist rule, this textured capital city of 2.2 million people is an acquired taste, and it's still in the process of defining itself. Just as Romania has been touted as the New Italy, Bucharest is being hailed as a sophisticated but less pricey alternative to Budapest and Belgrade.

The overarching signature of Bucharest today is the intersection of Communism and capitalism: Buses carrying tourists routinely pull up to the massive Palace of Parliament, built by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu as a tribute to himself. (More than one-sixth of the city was levelled to accommodate his indulgence.) The endless grey blocks of apartments that rose during Communist times are still in evidence, but so are outlets for Ferrari and Maserati, Hard Rock Cafe, ING, Starbucks and McDonald's. And the national sense of humour that Romanians quietly relied upon to help them survive Ceausescu's dictatorship is out in the open now. Locals, for instance, call the Judicial Ministry "the laundry": where politicians go in dirty and come out clean.

Located between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest in its golden age -- the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- was known throughout Europe as "Little Paris." Royals ruled at the time, and the city was famous for its elegant architecture, grand thoroughfares and cultural elite. There are still some gorgeous neo-Classical buildings that date back to Bucharest's heyday, but World War II bombings and two earthquakes altered much of the skyline.

A member of the European Union since 2007, modern-day Bucharest is trying hard to regain its fallen stature as a European capital. In a recent travel piece in The Guardian, the British newspaper calls Bucharest "Paris eaten then spat out." Get real. Bucharestians make no apologies for their city -- and they shouldn't. Just like its residents, it's a place with a big personality and a huge heart.

With its elegant, historic city centre, emerging cafe society, architectural high points and proximity to lovely Transylvania, Bucharest has a lot to offer tourists. That is why many companies book their Danube River cruise passengers on Bucharest (and nearby Transylvania) pre- or post-trips, even though passengers, depending on their itineraries, will embark or disembark their river ships in Ruse, Bulgaria, a few hours away. Buses transport them between Bucharest and the Danube. Ruse, for its part, has little to recommend it.

The word on Bucharest is that it's ugly, gritty, grimy -- and parts of it are. But don't make do with first impressions. As our guide aptly put it: "New-old-beautiful-ugly. This is what Bucharest is."

Energetic, hectic and just two decades out of Communist rule, this textured capital city of 2.2 million people is an acquired taste, and it's still in the process of defining itself. Just as Romania has been touted as the New Italy, Bucharest is being hailed as a sophisticated but less pricey alternative to Budapest and Belgrade.

The overarching signature of Bucharest today is the intersection of Communism and capitalism: Buses carrying tourists routinely pull up to the massive Palace of Parliament, built by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu as a tribute to himself. (More than one-sixth of the city was levelled to accommodate his indulgence.) The endless grey blocks of apartments that rose during Communist times are still in evidence, but so are outlets for Ferrari and Maserati, Hard Rock Cafe, ING, Starbucks and McDonald's. And the national sense of humour that Romanians quietly relied upon to help them survive Ceausescu's dictatorship is out in the open now. Locals, for instance, call the Judicial Ministry "the laundry": where politicians go in dirty and come out clean.

Located between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest in its golden age -- the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- was known throughout Europe as "Little Paris." Royals ruled at the time, and the city was famous for its elegant architecture, grand thoroughfares and cultural elite. There are still some gorgeous neo-Classical buildings that date back to Bucharest's heyday, but World War II bombings and two earthquakes altered much of the skyline.

A member of the European Union since 2007, modern-day Bucharest is trying hard to regain its fallen stature as a European capital. In a recent travel piece in The Guardian, the British newspaper calls Bucharest "Paris eaten then spat out." Get real. Bucharestians make no apologies for their city -- and they shouldn't. Just like its residents, it's a place with a big personality and a huge heart.

With its elegant, historic city centre, emerging cafe society, architectural high points and proximity to lovely Transylvania, Bucharest has a lot to offer tourists. That is why many companies book their Danube River cruise passengers on Bucharest (and nearby Transylvania) pre- or post-trips, even though passengers, depending on their itineraries, will embark or disembark their river ships in Ruse, Bulgaria, a few hours away. Buses transport them between Bucharest and the Danube. Ruse, for its part, has little to recommend it.

The word on Bucharest is that it's ugly, gritty, grimy -- and parts of it are. But don't make do with first impressions. As our guide aptly put it: "New-old-beautiful-ugly. This is what Bucharest is."

Energetic, hectic and just two decades out of Communist rule, this textured capital city of 2.2 million people is an acquired taste, and it's still in the process of defining itself. Just as Romania has been touted as the New Italy, Bucharest is being hailed as a sophisticated but less pricey alternative to Budapest and Belgrade.

The overarching signature of Bucharest today is the intersection of Communism and capitalism: Buses carrying tourists routinely pull up to the massive Palace of Parliament, built by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu as a tribute to himself. (More than one-sixth of the city was levelled to accommodate his indulgence.) The endless grey blocks of apartments that rose during Communist times are still in evidence, but so are outlets for Ferrari and Maserati, Hard Rock Cafe, ING, Starbucks and McDonald's. And the national sense of humour that Romanians quietly relied upon to help them survive Ceausescu's dictatorship is out in the open now. Locals, for instance, call the Judicial Ministry "the laundry": where politicians go in dirty and come out clean.

Located between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest in its golden age -- the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- was known throughout Europe as "Little Paris." Royals ruled at the time, and the city was famous for its elegant architecture, grand thoroughfares and cultural elite. There are still some gorgeous neo-Classical buildings that date back to Bucharest's heyday, but World War II bombings and two earthquakes altered much of the skyline.

A member of the European Union since 2007, modern-day Bucharest is trying hard to regain its fallen stature as a European capital. In a recent travel piece in The Guardian, the British newspaper calls Bucharest "Paris eaten then spat out." Get real. Bucharestians make no apologies for their city -- and they shouldn't. Just like its residents, it's a place with a big personality and a huge heart.

With its elegant, historic city centre, emerging cafe society, architectural high points and proximity to lovely Transylvania, Bucharest has a lot to offer tourists. That is why many companies book their Danube River cruise passengers on Bucharest (and nearby Transylvania) pre- or post-trips, even though passengers, depending on their itineraries, will embark or disembark their river ships in Ruse, Bulgaria, a few hours away. Buses transport them between Bucharest and the Danube. Ruse, for its part, has little to recommend it.

Visiting Rousse in Bulgaria offers a charming blend of history and modernity. Explore its elegant architecture, like the iconic Monument to Liberty, and immerse yourself in the vibrant cultural scene. Sample local cuisine at quaint cafes, and don't miss strolling along the picturesque Danube River promenade for a memorable experience.

Vidin is located in the extreme north-western Bulgaria, on the River Danube. The 14th century Fortress of Baba Vida has beautiful towers, thick walls and is well-preserved. It has lovely tranquil riverside walks. The churches of St. Panteleimon and St. Petka have fine murals. An agricultural and trade centre, Vidin has a fertile hinterland renowned for its wines and is the site of an annual fair. Vidin occupies the site of an old Celtic settlement, Dunonia founded in the 3rd century BC and fortified by the Romans as Bononia. Later (1185-1396), the town was known as Bdin, and in 1396 the Vidin kingdom fell to the Turks. They ruled it until 1878 except for a period of Austrian occupation from 1683 to 1690.

Belgrade is the capital city of Serbia and it lies at the meeting of the Danube and Sava rivers. Sights in the city include the Cathedral of St. Michael, or Saborna Crkva, built in 1837 and the old fortress of Kalemegdan on the headland, now a historical monument and its garden, from there you can seen a view of the plain across the Sava and the Danube. There are many museums and galleries, of which the oldest, the National Museum (Narodni Muzej), was founded in 1844. The artists' quarter Skadarlija is also well worth a visit. There is evidence of Stone Age settlements in the area. Notable are the excavations in Carasija near Ripanj where a statuette of a seated woman was found - one of the oldest pieces of sculpture in the world. Also the remains of an 8,000-year old settlement was discovered in Lepenski Vir with unique stone figures which resemble a fish with a human head and measure up to half a metre - these can be seen in the National Museum. The city grew up around an ancient fortress encompassed on three sides by the Sava and the Danube. Ruled by the Franks and the Bulgars, in the 11th century it became a frontier town of Byzantium. In 1402 Stephen Lazarevic made it the capital of Serbia but the Ottoman Turks captured the city in 1440 and it remained in their hands except for three periods of occupation by the Austrians. In 1921 Belgrade became the capital of Yugoslavia.

The historic city of Osijek (Osijekis) is the capital of the Slavonia region with a history dating back to Neolithic times. Explore the oldest part of the city, Tvrdja, a fascinating mix of Baroque houses, forts and churches. An 8th century Baroque citadel lies in the heart of the town. Its main central Holy Trinity Square is closed on the north by the building of the Military Command, on the west there is the Main Guard building and on the east is the Magistrate building which houses the Museum of Slavonia. Other sights include the promenade along the Drava ("promenade"), and the suspension pedestrian bridge across the Drava river. Nearby is the nature park of Kopacki Rit, one of the largest andmost attractive preserved wetlands in Europe. The Roman emperor Hadrian raised the old settlement of Mursa to a colony in 131. After that, Mursa had a turbulent history, with several decisive battles that took place here (among which the Battle of Mursa Major in 351 and the battle between Aureolus and Ingenuus in 260), deciding the destiny of the whole region. After their migration, the Croats made a settlement near the ruins of Mursa, giving it its present name, Osijek. Life was thriving here in the Middle Ages, but the city was sacked and destroyed by the Ottoman Empire in 1526. The Turks rebuilt it in oriental style. Osijek was restored to western rule in 1687 it was occupied by the Habsburg Empire who built a new fortress known as Tvrda. Between 1712 and 1721.

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Visitors come to Vienna with high expectations of lavish palaces, ornamental parks, cakes piled high with whipped cream and the strain of Strauss waltzes. They're rarely disappointed; this is a city that trades on its glorious past, revelling in its heyday, when Gustav Mahler was conducting the Vienna Philharmonic, Sigmund Freud was inventing psychoanalysis and the coffee houses were abuzz with the banter of middle-class intellectuals.

Yet, as much as it lives in the past, Vienna has hauled itself into the present with elegance and style. Visitors will discover a compact but diverse, multicultural city, with a thriving art and design scene, some truly fabulous shopping, superb contemporary art collections, and acres of gorgeous parks and gardens. Here, you'll find a happy devotion to the good life, whether it's sipping a cocktail at one of the hip bars on the Danube Canal or the gemutlichkeit (the Austrian term for "cosiness") of tasting wines grown on the hills around the city in a traditional pub garden in the village of Grinzing.

Because most of the big attractions are around or inside the Ringstrasse, the circular boulevard that encloses the first district, or city centre, Vienna is easy to explore. In fact, you could spend days in the first district alone, shopping on the elegant Karntnerstrasse, exploring St. Stephen's Cathedral and countless other Baroque churches, devoting time to galleries and museums and immersing yourself in the famous coffee culture.

The many river cruise lines that call on the city provide a mere snapshot of this thriving centre of European culture with little deviation from the very well-trodden tourist trail. But Vienna caters to a diverse range of interests, and the good news is that if you come back for more, or want to explore it alone, the city is a snap to navigate independently.

Krems lies at the meeting point of the River Danube and Krems river. northwest of Vienna. It was an imperial fortress around 995 and became a town in the 12th century, when it had a mint. Medieval fortifications can still be seen - Steiner Gate, the Pulverturm ("Powder Tower"), and the Gozzoburg. Nearby are the settlements of Stein an der Donau and Mautern (on the site of a Roman camp) now part of Krems. Buildings worth a look are the 13th century Stadtburg (fortress), the St. Veit parish church - one of Austria's oldest Baroque churches and two Gothic churches in Stein.

Engelhartszell, a picturesque village in Austria, captivates visitors with its enchanting charm. Surrounded by rolling hills and embraced by the Danube River, this idyllic destination offers stunning natural beauty. With its historic monastery, quaint architecture, and tranquil atmosphere, Engelhartszell is a hidden gem worth exploring for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike.

The largest medieval city in Germany and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2006, Regensburg was founded in 179 A.D. by the Romans. It eventually became the second-richest city in the Holy Roman Empire, prized for its trade of "White Gold," otherwise known as salt. It was even once the capital of Germany until it was moved to Munich. Fortunately, most of the city was spared destruction during World War II. With Romanesque and Gothic structures, courtyards, squares and a stone bridge, the city of roughly 150,000 residents makes you feel as if you're stepping straight into a storybook setting.

Nuremberg, located 110 miles north of Munich, is the second-largest city in Bavaria, boasting a population of 500,000. Save for its significance during World War II, it doesn't always get the spotlight it deserves. Yet, once you set foot in the walled medieval Old Town, you'll realize what a treasure the city is, especially if you can snag one of its famous Lebkuchen, Christmas gingerbread cookies dating to the 13th century. Even better: If you're there during the holidays, you can visit Christkindlemarkt, the city's world-famous Christmas market.

Nuremberg, located 110 miles north of Munich, is the second-largest city in Bavaria, boasting a population of 500,000. Save for its significance during World War II, it doesn't always get the spotlight it deserves. Yet, once you set foot in the walled medieval Old Town, you'll realize what a treasure the city is, especially if you can snag one of its famous Lebkuchen, Christmas gingerbread cookies dating to the 13th century. Even better: If you're there during the holidays, you can visit Christkindlemarkt, the city's world-famous Christmas market.

Moody, romantic, historic, mysterious: Think Franz Kafka, baroque music, medieval and Renaissance buildings, opera, small avant-garde theaters, marionettes, and the Velvet Revolution. All of these (and more) make the capital of the Czech Republic a must-do on a European river cruise. Prague serves as a transfer destination for Danube River cruises, as well as cruises that eventually hit the Main, Rhine and Moselle rivers. Passengers frequently overnight here for one day or more before journeying by bus to meet their ships. Modern-day Prague is shaped by a storied past that dates to the ninth century. Once part of the Holy Roman Empire, the city played a major role in the Protestant Reformation and the Thirty Years' War, and was later an important part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Historical figures associated with the city include the larger-than-life Bohemian Emperor Charles IV and, later, Empress Maria Theresa. The former Czechoslovakia was occupied by the Germans from 1939 to 1945. While the country suffered the hardships of World War II, Prague itself -- unlike other European capitals -- was not bombed extensively (although Americans accidentally knocked out around 100 buildings in Prague's historic center). Because so much of the city remained unscathed, architectural styles span the centuries: Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Rococo, Art Nouveau and Cubist. It's not an overstatement to say there is no other place quite like it. Liberated by Soviet troops in 1945, Czechoslovakia operated as a Soviet-style state for decades; not until the 1970s did dissident groups begin to organize against the Communist regime. But democracy was slow to take hold. It wasn't until after the famed Prague Spring uprising in 1968 and the student-led Velvet Revolution in 1989 that playwright and former political prisoner Vaclav Havel was elected president. Full, multiparty elections under a new constitution were held in 1992. One year later, the Czech Republic and Slovakia split into two nations. Today's Praha, as this city of 1.3 million is called, is firmly a tourist destination, with high quality shops, restaurants with top chefs, a historic center designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and important museums. It's not unusual to see Austrians, Germans, Russians and Americans following tour guides (with those ubiquitous raised umbrellas) through Prague Castle and the warren of cobblestone streets that make up Old Town. But that's just part of the city's present-day persona. Take a few days here before or after your cruise to dive deeper.

Moody, romantic, historic, mysterious: Think Franz Kafka, baroque music, medieval and Renaissance buildings, opera, small avant-garde theaters, marionettes, and the Velvet Revolution. All of these (and more) make the capital of the Czech Republic a must-do on a European river cruise. Prague serves as a transfer destination for Danube River cruises, as well as cruises that eventually hit the Main, Rhine and Moselle rivers. Passengers frequently overnight here for one day or more before journeying by bus to meet their ships. Modern-day Prague is shaped by a storied past that dates to the ninth century. Once part of the Holy Roman Empire, the city played a major role in the Protestant Reformation and the Thirty Years' War, and was later an important part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Historical figures associated with the city include the larger-than-life Bohemian Emperor Charles IV and, later, Empress Maria Theresa. The former Czechoslovakia was occupied by the Germans from 1939 to 1945. While the country suffered the hardships of World War II, Prague itself -- unlike other European capitals -- was not bombed extensively (although Americans accidentally knocked out around 100 buildings in Prague's historic center). Because so much of the city remained unscathed, architectural styles span the centuries: Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Rococo, Art Nouveau and Cubist. It's not an overstatement to say there is no other place quite like it. Liberated by Soviet troops in 1945, Czechoslovakia operated as a Soviet-style state for decades; not until the 1970s did dissident groups begin to organize against the Communist regime. But democracy was slow to take hold. It wasn't until after the famed Prague Spring uprising in 1968 and the student-led Velvet Revolution in 1989 that playwright and former political prisoner Vaclav Havel was elected president. Full, multiparty elections under a new constitution were held in 1992. One year later, the Czech Republic and Slovakia split into two nations. Today's Praha, as this city of 1.3 million is called, is firmly a tourist destination, with high quality shops, restaurants with top chefs, a historic center designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and important museums. It's not unusual to see Austrians, Germans, Russians and Americans following tour guides (with those ubiquitous raised umbrellas) through Prague Castle and the warren of cobblestone streets that make up Old Town. But that's just part of the city's present-day persona. Take a few days here before or after your cruise to dive deeper.