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CroisiEurope's first “premium” ship in Asia touts amenities designed to satisfy the demand for higher-end conveyances on the Mekong River. And though Indochine II retains the French-colonial character of the line's older ships, this newcomer has cranked things up a notch with private balconies outside each of its 31 cabins, and a roomy top-deck swimming pool. Its sleek exterior is low and wide with large windows throughout. Outer decks sport rich, local hardwood. Interior flooring also features lovely Vietnamese cam xe wood (akin to Burmese teak). A graceful curved staircase rises from the centre of the ship. And throughout, contemporary accents blend well with colonial trappings.
The ship sails between Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Minh City on 11-day itineraries from August to April. Its shallow draft enables it to navigate Cambodia's vast Tonle Sap Lake and river (a tributary of the Mekong) longer into the season than many river ships. At 213 feet long by 43 feet wide, Indochine II is proportioned to fit through the Cho Gao Canal in Ho Chi Minh City. That means passengers can overnight onboard at the start or end of a cruise for easy access to the bustling Vietnamese city, a convenience most other lines in the region don't offer.
Daytime dress is strictly casual, and, in the steamy climate of the Mekong, light, breathable garb is advisable. Passengers dress up a bit for dinner, but you won't need to pack any finery. Sundresses, skirts or cotton pants for women, and nice slacks and button-down shirts for men are as formal as it gets. Do pack suitably modest clothing for temple visits. In some locales, most notably Angor Wat, knees and shoulders must be covered, and throwing a scarf or sarong around your shoulders or waist won't do. Sensible shoes are paramount, too, since you'll be climbing over stones and walking on uneven ground at temple sites. Packing waterproof footwear is a good idea, since the rainy season (May to November) can bring sudden, torrential downpours.
CroisiEurope prides itself on offering comprehensive packages at competitive rates. To that end, shore excursions and gratuities to shipboard staff are included in the cruise fare. Tips to excursion guides and drivers are not. To streamline that tipping process, the cruise director will collect gratuities at the start of the cruise and distribute them along the way. (It's a nice gesture to make a small cash donation at temples and pagodas.)
Coffee, tea and cold bottled water are always available on the Sun Deck. Bottled water is also provided in the cabins. One beer, mineral water or soft drink is served gratis at lunch and dinner.
Wi-Fi in the ship's public areas is free, though it's not always fast or reliable.
The onboard currency is the U.S. dollar, which is also the preferred currency in Cambodia. In Vietnam, the official currency is the dong, and though some large shops might accept U.S. dollars, you might pay a premium. In off-the-beaten path spots in Vietnam, it's best to carry local currency.
Shore Excursions
Shore excursions are included in the cruise price and range from a tour of Angkor Wat, the jaw-dropping 12th-century jungle temple in Cambodia, to visiting Ho Chi Minh City highlights like the Independence Palace and the Notre Dame Cathedral. Off-the-beaten path excursions include visiting a Vietnamese bee farm and a Cambodian pottery village, where passengers can wander around an enclave of rural huts, sample the local palm liquor and buy handmade wood and ceramic objects. Guides are local, and an English-speaking interpreter is guaranteed, regardless of the number of English-speaking passengers onboard.
Daytime and Evening Entertainment
The ship's staff sometimes puts on a show, but after dinner, passengers mostly create their own diversions by playing cards or board games, reading or conversing.
Enrichment
Guides deliver onboard talks about the past and present of Vietnam and Cambodia. Classic Khmer dance performances are featured in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Other cultural experiences include visits to local villages and craft studios to see first-hand how traditional wood carving and stonework are done. There's also a visit to a local school.
A 1,184-square-foot panoramic lounge/bar on the Sun Deck provides expansive views, as well as nooks for quiet conversation. This is the go-to spot before and after dinner. A four-stool bar is tucked into one corner, where cocktails, beer, wine and espresso drinks are served. Elsewhere, a mix of built-in sofas and comfy armchairs in a mix of cheerful sunflower yellow and white, face panoramic windows on either side of the ship. It's a pleasant place to sit back with a beverage and drink in the view.
Outside on the adjoining Sun Deck, there's a second small bar. Tables, chairs and sofas are arranged in conversational groupings, including some sheltered by a sun shade. Also, here are plenty of chaises, four double beach beds and four swinging basket chairs. AstroTurf and lots of potted palms create a tropical atmosphere.
The Sun Deck's pool isn't lengthy enough for serious lap swimmers, but at 10-by-56 feet, it's bigger than those on many river ships, and provides a cool respite from the tropical heat. Another plus: It's covered by a sunshade and is open 24 hours. The whole deck area is fabulous, with the sun beds and swinging chairs lending a nice touch.
A tiny shop in the reception area sells T-shirts, scarves and a few other basic souvenirs. Games and books are shelved in the main lounge, though they're in French. Onboard laundry service is extremely reasonable and a 24-hour turnaround time.
Two side-by-side massage tables inhabit a small, but pleasant, room on the Lower Deck. Two onboard therapists offer traditional Thai and Khmer massage for a bargain-price. Other treatment options include a foot massage; and an herbal facial.
On this cruise, you're more likely to get your heart pumping on shore than on the ship. That said, there is no lift so you'll get a bit of a workout going up and down the stairs. Other than that and the morning tai chi session conducted on the Sun Deck, there is no organized fitness routine, nor is there a gym.
All meals are served in the ship's dining room, an airy light-filled 1,292-square-foot space on the Main Deck. Open-seating tables are set for two, four or six, and one large central table seats eight.
Set meal times vary slightly to accommodate shore visits. The breakfast (7 to 8:30 a.m.) and lunch buffets (usually around 12:30 p.m.) offer a nice variety.
For breakfast, there are made-to-order omelettes, yogurt, cold and hot cereals, and a tasty variety of made-onboard breads and croissants. Warming dishes harbour pancakes, bacon, sausage and potatoes to please Western palates. Or go Eastern with a steaming bowl of rice-noodle soup. Also on the buffet: cold cuts, tomatoes, cheeses and fresh fruit, including pineapple, papaya and dragon fruit.
Lunch is also a serve-yourself affair. There's always a homemade soup, a nice variety of salads (mixed vegetables, avocado, etc.) and several hot entrees such as barbecued chicken, eggplant with pork, and pork tenderloin. Steamed rice is a staple. And desserts focus on fresh fruit, although fried bananas were on the menu one day.
Dinner, usually served around 7:30 or 8 p.m. depending on the day's excursion schedule, features one soup and appetizer, such as vegetable quiche, and an order-off-the-menu choice of three entrees. On one night, for instance, there was pan-fried local river fish; grilled pork fillet with red wine sauce or the stir-fry noodle dish, pad thai. There's one dessert choice, like cheese cake or fresh fruit. On our cruise, one meal was served family-style and featured Khmer dishes such as chicken salad with banana flowers, hot and sour shrimp soup, steamed local fish, sauteed spicy beef with vegetables, and lemongrass-spiked rice. Vegetarians at our table found their options limited, but CroisiEurope says with advance notice, they're happy to accommodate dietary preferences.
The dining room is decorated in neutral whites, but servers provide a splash of color with their traditional silk dresses.
A complimentary beer, soft drink or mineral water is offered with lunch and dinner.
Room service is available by request.
At 194 square feet, the ship's 31 cabins are relatively spacious. Most have 43-square-foot balconies (though far-forward patios lose some width as the ship tapers toward the bow). The slender space accommodates a small table and two chairs. If you're hankering for more exterior territory, four cabins -- 201 and 202 (forward) and 221 and 224 (aft) -- also sport 64-square-foot mini-terraces. (Note that on some occasions when the Upper Deck gangway is employed, cabin 221's terrace becomes a public passageway.)
Eight cabins are on the Main Deck and 23 are on the Upper Deck, but other than location, they're identical. The two twin beds can be converted into queens, but there's no pillow-top to conceal the space between the two mattresses.
The color scheme is neutral, with white walls and dark stained built-ins and wood floors. There's generous overhead lighting, plus two built-in bedside lights and a desk lamp.
Cabins have ample storage. The double louver-door closets contain several shelves, and a corner TV cabinet has deep compartments above and below the set. Under-bed space accommodates suitcases. There's a safe in the closet, though it's not large enough to hold a full-size laptop. A mini-refrigerator is stocked with bottled water. Two upholstered benches sit at the base of the bed facing the balcony, and there's a canvas director's chair at the built-in desk. A small drawer on the desktop is handy for stashing items like room keys, eyeglasses and other objects that tend to get misplaced.
The flat-screen television didn't get much reception on our cruise, and when it did, no stations were in English. A couple of locale-appropriate movies (The Killing Fields, Indochine) play in rotation.
A water closet off the cabin's entryway houses the toilet and sink. On the opposite side of the room is a bathroom with a roomy glassed-in shower with detachable overhead spout and a lower spigot that's handy for rinsing feet. The single-sink vanity has open storage space underneath, plus two deep drawers. Slate-grey floors and textured, tiled walls complete the sleek look. Amenities include two light cotton bathrobes and a hair dryer. CroisiEurope shower gel and shampoo are provided, but body lotion and cream rinse are not.
