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Since its launch in 2013, Emerald Waterways has built a reputation for value river cruising on contemporary boats, with gratuities and transfers among the extras included in the fare. The 182-passenger Emerald Sun follows the line's template, with smartly designed cabins, a heated indoor pool that turns into a movie theatre at night and comfortable modern décor that is attractive yet cosy enough for lounging.
Where Emerald Sun shines is in this casualness, which never seems forced. It's a ship to kick back -- there are no frilly or formal furniture, lighting or curtains -- and no one puts on airs. The line draws an international mix of English-speaking passengers, with the dominant culture depending on the sailing. On our December holiday market cruise, the festiveness of the season was heightened by a decidedly younger demographic, bookended by a group of 30-year-old Americans celebrating the milestone birthday with their parents. We found everyone on the boat friendly, however, regardless of age. For most, Emerald Sun was their first river cruise and the consensus seemed to be that on the vessel, passengers were receiving good bang for their buck.
Our Emerald Sun experience had some truly standout moments. We loved the cruise director Balázs, who has won line awards for his enthusiasm and service. Having a movie theatre onboard (with popcorn!) provided an evening alternative to the lounge singer. An included shore excursion to a private home outside Bratislava provided insight into local life. The Bavarian buffet, with beer, sausages and pretzels, won rave reviews. The line actually ran its EmeraldActive tours, such as biking the Wachau Valley and hiking to Dürnstein castle, for a few hardy souls who didn't mind the frosty weather. And the boat's cheery holiday decorations -- and an awesome specialty coffee machine -- made the lounge a homey refuge from the chilliness of the air outside.
All in all, Emerald Sun makes a nice introduction to river cruising. Considering the extras that you receive in the fare, an Emerald Sun cruise represents a great value amid attractive spaces straight from Restoration Hardware Modern that you might want to copy in your own home.
Emerald Sun is decidedly casual. During the day, passengers wear T-shirts, tops and sweaters, with jeans and leggings. In the evening, women may change into a different top, but you'll still find jeans and casual pants most nights, while men might switch into a collared shirt.
Twice during the sailing, the boat has a "welcome dinner" and a "farewell dinner" that are considered more dressy. On our sailing, this usually meant women put on a festive sweater or a casual dress. A handful of men wore jackets, but they were in the minority and a jacket or tie is not required.
In Europe, you'll want to bring comfy walking shoes, as well as raincoat or winter coat and accessories, depending on the season. Emerald Sun has a small gym onboard, as well as a fleet of bikes to use, so if you want to exercise, you'll need fitness clothes. Finally, the ship has a swimming pool so don't forget your bathing suit.
Emerald Waterways river cruise fares have a nice range of inclusions, with gratuities and transfers included. We loved having large bottles of still and sparkling water in our cabin that were constantly replenished; you also get bottled water for excursions. At least one excursion is included in each port, and in some ports, there's an active excursion involving hiking or biking. All walking tours also have a gentle walking option; still, those with mobility issues should talk to the cruise director before heading out. Beer, wine and soft drinks are complimentary at lunch and dinner. Wi-Fi is also included.
A limited number of bikes are also available at no extra charge.
Shore Excursions
Emerald Sun offers at least one complimentary shore excursion in every port, and sometimes there's more than one; you'll also have the opportunity for "Discover More" excursions that come with an extra fee. The free excursions are usually a combination of bus tour and walking tour; one bus or tour is always designated for gentle walkers.
One included tour that is not to be missed is the visit to a local house in Slovakia. Passengers are divided into small groups of 15 or so to have coffee and cake in peoples' homes. Almost everyone returned to the ship after the excursion with interesting stories from their visit.
EmeraldActive excursions are held periodically throughout the cruise, and these are also free of charge. They could include a hike up Buda Castle Hill, a bike trip around Vienna or a 22-mile bike ride through the Wachau Valley. We were impressed that the ship made these available even in chilly December for those who wanted some exercise.
The extra fee "Discover More" tours are typically more involved and may run at the same time as the complimentary tour, forcing you to make a choice. On the Danube, for example, the "Discover More" tour to Salzburg takes eight hours and means you'll miss out on Passau. One tour that earned rave reviews was a classical music concert at a small palace in Vienna.
Daytime and Evening Entertainment
Because most people book river cruises for the ports and not the ship, daytime activities on the ship are limited. There's a small collection of cards and games in the Horizon Lounge and there may be a cooking demonstration for those who stay onboard.
One nice highlight for those who stay is that they can use the enclosed and heated indoor pool at the back of the boat; we found this space underutilized on our trip (which means you can have it almost completely to yourself). There are pool loungers and bottled water available. At night, the boat has very cool technology that covers the pool and turns the space into a movie theatre, complete with popcorn. On our sailing, Christmas movies were shown almost every night.
Before dinner, the boat had local entertainment twice on our cruise. Both the Hungarian dancers and the German oom-pah band were fairly entertaining, getting the crowd involved. One night, a rousing game of Christmas trivia took place. Otherwise, the entertainment consisted of David, a piano player who would cycle through a mix of easy listening songs. Once per cruise, the lounge turns into a disco, which was heavily anticipated by the millennials on our sailing (and some of the crew, who came out to dance with passengers).
Enrichment
On our sailing, enrichment was fairly limited. On scenic sailing days, the cruise director narrated what we were seeing along the river. TV screens in the Horizon Lounge also broadcast "fun facts" about the Main-Danube Canal system during one stretch. There was also a Christmas cookie demonstration one morning.
Otherwise, the main onboard information you receive about where you're visiting comes in the evening before dinner during the cruise director's "port talk."
There's only one main bar on Emerald Sun: Horizon Lounge. It has a contemporary look of black, white and grey, accented with purple. The sofas and chairs are set up for group conversation and there's an awesome long black table at the front of the lounge that's perfect for having a cup of coffee and watching the river ahead.
During the day, Horizon is a nice place to hang out with a quiet book, have tea or enjoy a light bite. On scenic sailing days and before dinner, it can get crowded; if you're in a group, go early to grab seating.
Outside Horizon at the front of the ship are several outdoor tables and chairs that also have great views. During our winter sailing, it was generally too chilly to use it but we can imagine these would be popular in the summer months.
A range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are served in the lounge. There are three house wines on the menu -- white, red and prosecco; we found that if we had enjoyed a certain wine at dinner, the bar staff would get it for us. A range of drink packages were available.
At night around 10:30, the bar staff usually put out a small snack of canapes. One night after the classical music concert, a special evening presentation of goulash and international cheese made things festive.
Another highlight of Horizon Lounge is the specialty coffee machine that made excellent cappuccinos, lattes and espressos (as well as hot chocolate). You can use the included cups or get a paper cup for takeaway.
The pool area also has a small bar area, but it wasn't staffed during our cruise; bar staff from Horizon did run some drinks back there but most people watching movies found it easier to get their own and carry it back. There's also a coffee machine in the area, and a refrigerator with bottled water.
Pools
Emerald Sun has a gorgeous indoor infinity pool at the back of the ship that has a retractable roof pool. It's heated, so you can use it all year round. Loungers surround the pool, which is open 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.; after that, it becomes a movie theatre. On our cruise, it wasn't used much, but we're sure it gets more use in the summertime.
The upper deck of Emerald Sun has a small putting green and a walking/jogging track -- six laps equals 1 mile. The pool is indoors, though the roof can be opened on nice days for open-air swimming.
Most of Emerald Sun's services are on Deck 2. Here you'll find the reception desk where you check in when you enter the boat, settle your bill and book salon or spa services. On Emerald Sun, you not only receive a room key, you get a personalized fob that you scan when you get on and off the ship. Complimentary bottled water for excursions is located near the reception desk.
The cruise director's desk is on Deck 2, right across from the lift and in front of the restaurant entrance. There's a table with city maps and recommended attractions, language sheets and other information. The cruise director is also on hand to give advice about different tours, call a cab or generally be helpful (he directed us to an excellent café with strong Wi-Fi in Bratislava).
Wi-Fi on the ship is complimentary.
A lift runs between the first, second and third decks; it does not go to the sun deck. People with mobility issues should be aware that gangways can rise and lower depending on the level of the river, and you can't use a walker or wheelchair on them. Occasionally, too, you'll have to walk across another ship, over the top deck, to get to shore. On bus tours, there is space under the coach to store a walker and the driver will get it in and out for you (make sure you tip). In general, European river cruises can be difficult for people with severe mobility issues.
You can't do your own laundry on Emerald Sun, but the ship will launder and iron items for you, either paying by the piece or by the bag.
There's a very small gym on Emerald Sun with two stationary bikes, some free weights and mats for stretching or yoga (although you'd likely want to bring these to the top deck as the gym itself is tight).
During daylight hours, the top-deck track is good for walking and jogging. Keep in mind that the top bridge closes on rivers with low bridges such as the Main. Smokers do use the area behind the wheelhouse.
Emerald Sun has both a salon for hair styling, manicures and facials. There is also a massage therapist onboard who is excellent. Prices are fairly reasonable. Appointments can be made at the reception desk on Deck 2.
You won't leave Emerald Sun hungry -- there is always plenty to eat. Alternative "classic" dishes such as Caesar salad, grilled chicken or steak with fries are available at lunch and dinner. Dinner menus come in the daily program, with dishes marked for vegetarians and those with food sensitivities (and you can always talk to the maître d').
We also appreciated the "lighter" breakfast and lunch buffets that were available in the lounge. Tea with sweets and small sandwiches are also placed out around 4 p.m. and cookies are available in the pool area anytime. On movie nights, popcorn if offered at the pool and a canape usually comes out in the lounge for late-night noshers.
Reflections Restaurant (Deck #2): Emerald Sun's main dining room is pleasant and contemporary, with plenty of tables for two, four or six passengers. There's also a long table at the front of the dining room for large groups. There's no assigned seating so you can dine wherever and with whomever you wish. Breakfast and lunch are served within a time range, while passengers are asked to sit down to dinner at the same time.
Breakfast is a buffet and usually runs between 7 and 8:30 a.m. (timing may change, depending on excursions). Cold buffet choices include meats and cheeses; cereal, muesli and yogurt; smoked salmon; pastries, breads and rolls; and fruit. Hot breakfast may include oatmeal, baked beans, bacon and sausage, scrambled eggs and potato hash browns. Omelettes and other egg dishes are made to order. Coffee is poured by waiters. Gluten-free toast, muffins and cereal are available by request.
Lunch is also a buffet, with hours depending on shore excursions. The menu changes daily and includes appetizers, a salad bar, two soups, a pasta, main courses (plus usually one that you order from your waiter) and desserts. Options might include Hungarian goulash, fillet of pollock with lentil balsamic sauce and cabbage braised in Tokaji wine; and celery-potato fritter. The dessert selection always includes a cake, two ice creams and an array of international cheeses.
Dinner takes place around 7 p.m., depending on the day's events. It's a four-course meal, served by waiters, with a choice of two appetizers, two soups and three entrées (one meat, one fish and one vegetarian). There is a chef's recommendation meal on one side of the menu. Appetizers might include beetroot risotto or a Greek salad; soups might be zucchini with fresh dill or beef bouillon. Entrées might be goose breast served with red cabbage and potato dumplings; fillet of trout with red pepper foam and sugar peas; or grilled fennel with zucchini, spiced rice and herb yogurt. There's usually a choice of four desserts, which could be a cold berry soup with sweet cheese dumplings; banana ice cream with chocolate sauce and almond cream; fresh fruit and an international cheese plate.
Complimentary wine is poured liberally at lunch and dinner. Every day, a different red and white are offered, with one almost always being a regional specialty (which can be interesting in countries like Hungary and Slovakia, where wine typically isn't exported).
Horizon Lounge (Deck #3): The central gathering spot on Emerald Sun is also a nice place to get an early breakfast, a light lunch or afternoon tea -- particularly on days with scenic sailing.
Breakfast in Horizon starts at 6:30 and ends at 10 a.m. You'll find a small selection of cold cuts and cheeses, scrambled eggs, pastry and yogurt.
Lunch is available during the same hours as the main dining room. It's usually a smaller selection of what you'll find in the downstairs buffet and often includes a salad bar, a soup, a hot sandwich and a hot entrée such as potato dumplings.
At 4 p.m., afternoon tea is served with specialty teas, finger sandwiches and small pastries.
Room service is available for breakfast only in the two upper room categories.
When you walk down Emerald Sun's passenger corridors, you'll first notice the neutral grey, brown, black and white colour scheme that's echoed in the cabins. Floor-to-ceiling windows that open halfway with the touch of a button are part of Emerald Waterways' signature cabin design that is found not only on Emerald Sun but the line's other "Star-Ships." It's an excellent setup; when you lower the windows, you can get fresh air and have an unobstructed view of what's going on outside (the windows can get a bit drafty in the late fall and winter, however).
The majority of cabins have two twin beds that can be combined into a queen, a flat-screen TV, alarm clocks, a vanity and an upper shelf. Storage is centred around a closet that has hangers, as well as a place for shoes, plus two deep drawers under the TV. In most cabins, you'll find a mini-fridge stocked with snacks that you can buy for a fee (unless you're in the Owner's Suite, where these are included). Robes and slippers are in the closets, along with golf umbrellas and a pair of Nordic walking sticks.
The in-room TV offers 25 channels, with many being ship related or offering more information about areas where Emerald Waterways sails. There's a nice selection of news stations. There's also a large selection of on-demand movies, both classic films and new releases are available free of charge.
The outlets are primarily European, although there was one universal plug converter near the vanity. We especially appreciated the outlets near the bed. There's a safe to protect valuables, as well as individual climate control. We particularly liked the "do not disturb" switch that kept the occasionally enthusiastic stewards from coming to make up the room too early.
The bathrooms are compact; only one person can really be in them at a time. The showers have glass doors and toiletries include shower gel, shampoo and conditioner. There's a hair dryer. Hot water came fast and was plentiful.
Single Stateroom: Emerald Sun has two 117-square-foot single staterooms both on the lowest deck, the Riviera Deck. In these cabins, the single twin bed stretches from the wall toward the door, underneath a picture window that doesn't open. Furniture consists of a single chair, a small round tray-style table in the corner and a dresser with three drawers.
Stateroom: Also on the lowest deck are 18 Emerald Staterooms that are 162 square feet, with a rectangular window that doesn't open. Two twin beds can be combined into a queen. Furniture includes a small round tray-style table with two chairs, and built-in bedside shelves with reading lights.
Panorama Balcony Suite: The majority of cabins on Emerald Sun are Panorama Balcony cabins which are 180 square feet. They are located Deck 2 (Vista Deck) and Deck 3 (Horizon Deck), with little difference between them. The word "balcony" is a bit of a misnomer, but the wall-sized windows that open halfway do bring in fresh air and natural light, making the space feel like it's a balcony. A sheer curtain protects you from too much sun during the day and there are dark shades at night to keep out light. Furniture is fairly efficient with twin beds that convert into a queen, small round table with two chairs and built-in bedside shelves.
Grand Balcony Suite: The eight Grand Balcony suites on Deck 3 are 210 square feet and have the boat's signature windows that open halfway. The extra space here comes in footage near the window; the seating area is separated from the rest of the room by a sliding-glass door, making it more of a separate solarium than you find in the regular rooms. Furniture is the same as what's provided in the Panorama Balcony rooms, but additional amenities include a Nespresso machine and pillow menu.
Owner's Suite: The top accommodations on Emerald Sun are four 315-square-foot one-bedroom Owner's Suites on Deck 3. These are true suites, with the bedroom separated from the living space by a sliding-glass door. The bedroom has two beds that convert to a queen (this room has a pillow menu too), a vanity with ottoman and two bedside tables. The living space has a walk-in closet, two leather loungers, a small table, a dry bar with lower and overhead cabinets, a mini-bar stocked with complimentary drinks, a Nespresso machine, and drawers and a long wooden shelf beneath the massive flat-screen TV. Passengers staying in Owner's Suites also have use of an in-cabin iPad. The balcony space is the same solarium setup that you find in the Grand Balcony Suites.
Passengers in both the Grand Balcony and Owner's Suites can order room service breakfast, a nice perk on days where there's an early start. They also receive pre-dinner canapes and after-dinner sweets. Cruisers in Grand Balcony Suites get two free items of laundry per day, while those in Owner's Suites get four free items of laundry per day. Those in Owner's Suites also get an invitation to dine with the captain.
